Guide to Hotel in the Red Light District
One of the oldest parts of the city, The Red Light District (known locally as De Wallen) is much more than the stuff of tourist brochures. With Warmoerstraat on the west side, and Zeedijk on the east side, the area in between is home to sex shops, coffee shops, and of course, abundant glittering red lights. The area is currently undergoing a facelift to make it somewhat more palatable to locals and tourists alike. Though it is rumored to be sleazy and dangerous, it is so full of police that really it is not the den of crime it is often made out to be: Caution should be exercised nonetheless. Ever since the first sailors came in to port in Amsterdam sex workers have plied their trade in this historic location. One need not stray far to find women of every size, shape, and age. Too often though, the other points of cultural value are neglected in introductions to this area. Numbering amongst the best of the rest are hidden churches, the former headquarters of the Dutch East India company, and a vibrant- if compact- China town.
Getting Around
Even locals aren't crazy enough to cycle through here. Pedestrians rule the streets; best thing to do is walk. If you are determined to find other means of navigating the area try a bike taxi. If you don't feel comfortable walking in the area after dark, consider taking one of the walking tours that go through the area every night.
Hotels
Most of the hotels in the Red Light District cater to a lower budget. However, the SAS Raddisson is not far away, nor is the Excelsior. Many of the hostels in the Red Light itself are quite palatable but prior research goes a long way. This is one area where it doesn't hurt to spend a few extra euro per night for a little comfort.
Shopping
Zeedijk, a lovely, old street is a great fusion of Dutch and Chinese shopping. Finely crafted furniture, artifacts and collectibles from the East are easily available from many stores on this street. Even if you have no intention of buying anything it is a lovely street to poke around. Warmoerstraat, and indeed most of the district, is lined with adult stores with shelves packed with mind boggling paraphernalia and toys. Venture up closer to the University of Amsterdam on Kloveniersburgwal for some nice book stores. Damstraat and Oude Hoogstraat have some curious stores that are worth a few hours' inspection. Fans of photo books, designer Buddhas, second hand records, and ornate hats will not be disappointed.
Dining out
This is not much of an area for fine dining but the mid range is very well catered for. If you're not sure what you are in the mood for, wander down Zeedijk; sooner or later you'll find something that whets your appetite and suits your budget. Of real note are the twin Thai bird restaurants, one is a budget- but certainly delicious- snack bar, the other is an atmospheric restaurant with hospitable staff and a menu that satisfies even the fussiest. Nieuwemarkt has more than a few eateries also. Café de Waag is a great marriage of atmosphere, history and good food, and Poco Loco is a lovely spot for lunch.
Places of interest in the area
The Oude Kerk looms large over the area and its bells ring out across most of central Amsterdam. It has been renovated and redesigned many times in its almost 800 years but it remains a must-see in Amsterdam. These days it is the starting point for the World Press Photo exhibition in the spring. If you happen to be in town during this exhibition it is always worth a look. Our Lord in the Attic (Museum Ons' Lieve Heer op Solder) is the best known example of the 'hidden church' phenomenon. During the reformation Catholicism was outlawed in the Dutch capital. Small hidden chapels sprang up as a result. This one is anything but small! The University of Amsterdam has premises all over the city, making the city the University's campus in many ways. However, a key hub of the university is in the area straddling Kloveniersburgwal and Oudezijds Achterburgwal. Some of the oldest, most dramatically leaning, houses in the city are in this area.
Health and Leisure
Aside from the erotic massages available in the Red Light District proper, Zeedijk offers many therapeutic massage practitioners. Whether it's your foot, your hand, or your shoulders that need work, someone on Zeedijk can help, and the prices are friendly too. Indeed acupuncture and acupressure are easily found here also.
Night Life
In the district itself the choices are thin. If you're stuck for a place for a late drink, de Buurvrouw has yet to disappoint anyone but it is not a place to start the night. Nieuwmarkt is a better bet with many hip late bars. Café Cuba stands out as a launching pad for a good night out. On the Central Station end of Zeedijk there are also a few funky little bars, some of them regularly playing live music If dancing is your aim, head for Winston Kingdom on Warmoersstraat. Their DJs play the sounds you need to hear, when you need to hear them.
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